For every Californian surfer, there’s a day in the year where things begin to change.
What once was over-crowded beach traffic, ferris wheel make-outs at the county fair, and paddle battling joe-shmo for onshore knee high slop, suddenly begins to shift as wind patterns change, the ocean temperature dips, and the Pacific Northwest rears to life.
The seasonal shift from Summer to Fall is every die-hard surfers dream. Finally, it’s time to dust off your step up board, bust out your booties, and practice your breath holds. This past run of swell was highlighted by a consistent flow of pumping surf, while Santa Ana winds rose from their summer slumber to produce pristine conditions all along the Californian coastline.
With all ingredients in place, last Thursday delivered the perfect recipe for Malibu’s Dillon Perillo to jump in the car and head south of the border. Arriving to the beach at sunrise to double overhead offshore perfection was all it took to have Dillon dart to the lineup and pick his spot among the pounding beach break. Dillon chose his waves decisively and put on a show. After four hours, he decided he’d had enough, drove south to his favorite taco stand, then snuck in one more afternoon session at a reeling righthand point break.
Post surf, called for a delicious sunset cerveza, laughs with friends, and a jaunt back across the border to wrap up the day trip.
Video/Edit: Justin Jung