segunda-feira, 30 dezembro 2013 11:37

'SURFING IS EVERYTHING: USMAN TRIOKO'

Video do surfista indonésio da Rip Curl

Integrado na equipa da Rip Curl em setembro de 2012, Usman destacou-se em Lobok por dominar as lendárias esquerdas, superando atletas mais conceituados que se deslocam regularmente para surfar o "seu" tubo.

"Surfing is like nothing else.
It's sunburnt backs & bloodshot eyes.
It's paddling back out for one more, 10 times.
Surfing is melting wax & burning sand.
It's warm water, salt water, and a dry mouth.
It's calling a mate into the best wave of the morning.
Surfing is tubes & turns & flying down the line.
It's head-dips & chop-hops, hoots & high-fives.
It's three fins and one fin, two fins and none.
Surfing is being local yet still searching.
It's road-trips, boarding passes & rocking boats.
It's a tropical reef & a track through the dunes.
Surfing is the first view of the ocean every morning.
Surfing is who we are..."

#surfingiseverything

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